Fantastic model. I won't repeat all the other kudos. I was a joy to build, but it took almost a month's worth of free time (if you sand all the edges, mark all the lines, blend, top coat, then apply all the decals). My only notes on the build for you are: 1.) Download "google translate" for your phone, launch the app, then use the camera to translate the instruction booklet for you. Apparently translating out of Japanese into English is not very precise and you will get multiple translations as you move the camera around. But it really helps. 2.) There are a couple left-over pieces that you do not need. Don't worry about them though. They are noted in the instructions as being "extra" (once the translation made sense). 3.) Pick up a modelers kit. The tiny nippers, tweezers, files, sanders, etc. were indespencible and saved a ton of time. Though with precision comes time-wastage on minutia. So be ware. I primarily use the nippers to clip off each piece, then used the emery boards (included) for sanding and polishing. The files were a little more aggressive, but easier to work in smaller areas than the emery boards. The tiny exacto knife was not very helpful since the clippers were very accurate, but always nice to have. 4.) Do NOT use ANY glue unless you can read Japanese fluently. "Press together" and "Stick together" (implying glue) is a very subtle but crucial distinction that Google Translate may or may not covey with any accuracy. You just blew $100 for this model and the extra tools. Don't ruin it with glue in the wrong places. It is possible to almost completely disassemble the pieces of the completed model for painting (or gluing). Gluing after your initial build is better since you'll understand the model better. There are some pieces that are designed to separate as the arm or leg flexes so if you glue them you've just paralyzed your Gundam. 5. ) If you DO use glue, apply it with a tooth pick. You will never need more than a super tiny drop to keep these already tightly fitting pieces cemented together. Plus, the tiny glue drops are easy to break apart if you make any mistakes. 6. ) Watch some videos on YouTube on how to use the liner markers. They don't dry like normal paint so you will need to clear coat the entire model to avoid smudging your lines you spent so much time perfecting. Smudging them on purpose can look really cool, like corrosion or grime after a battle, but it will keep smudging as long as you work with that piece until you clear-coat the whole model. 7. ) Clear coating - disassemble the main components of the model (legs, arms, head, torso, etc.) and put them all in a big box you to spray them all in. The reason for doing them all at the same time is that there are soooooooo many sides, angles, blocked areas, etc. so the ambient spray mist that builds up in the box is very important. Plus it will save you a ton of money over having to buy multiple cans of clear coat. 8. ) Clear coating + lines - if you used liner markers the clear coat may dissolve or dilute or cause the ink to run or separate and spread out. I recommend your first coat of clear coat be VERY light. Just enough to pin down your lines a bit. Keep your next couple coats very thin as well. Only go heavier once all your decals are on. 9. ) Decals should be under your clear coat, that's true. But it's nearly impossible to get all your lines perfect and get all the decals on without messing up your lines from all that handling. Apply the decals after a couple clear coats. Then do a couple more coats on top of the decals. 10.) Possibly the most important thing!!!!!!! The trays of parts are named "A" "B" or "C1" etc. The letters designating which tray is which are VERY hard to see. I strongly recommend you put a big piece of masking tape on each tray (wrapped around the frame edge and folded over so you can write on both sides of it) then write the tray name on each one LARGE so you can see it. There are hundreds of parts. Without this step, you will waste another hundred hours trying to figure out which one is where. 11.) CORRECT paint marker colors... White is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00750J1EO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Blue is TBD - please let me know if you figure out the correct blue. Thanks :)
